 I am delighted to say that I am back traveling again and will soon be posting my thoughts and experiences on traveling in 2024.
Follow me on Instagram or Facebook for more current updates and bite size travel tips. (See Contact Page)  In 2019 I flew across the ocean, took trains across France, and then hiked over mountains to an inn called ‘Artzain Etchea’ (which means “sheepherder’s house”) in Estérençuby, France. This inn was founded by my great-great-grandfather, and was the birthplace of my great-grandfather, Bernardo Bidegain, and his ten siblings.
Visiting the birthplace of my great-grandfather made me realize that I can’t even imagine what things must have been like back then. Bernardo Bidegain immigrated to America in 1906 when he was 17 years old. America was looking for sheepherders, and many Basque men came over here for that work during that time. It must have been very exciting for Bernardo to be going to America. He was successful and married Jesusa and they had a family (which is part of how I came to exist).
He never returned to the Basque Country. Did he ever see his parents ever again? I don’t know. Did he ever miss his homeland? I don’t know. Did he worry endlessly about his family during the Basque oppression? I have no idea. Only in recent years did I learn that we know the whereabouts of his birthplace, and that is how I started on this curiosity quest. Believe me, the quest has offered more questions than answers.
Many of the Basque people that I spoke to in Spain and France were mind boggled that I didn’t know anything about Basque culture, even though I have a Basque last name. That is when I started realizing that America may be unique in this way. Many Americans’ family history was lost when they immigrated to America. Those people were looking for a “new life” and often times they never looked back. Many never even wanted to talk about the old times or the old country.
Much of the history of my own family, on both my father’s and my mother’s side has been lost because the people who knew the history didn’t pass it on, and have since passed away. I hope that as more and more people immigrate to other places, they recognize the importance of passing on their family history, where they came from, and all the ancestors that helped to bring us to where we are now. Believe me, your great-grandchildren will care deeply about this.   Maybe one of the most beautiful medieval towns I’ve ever seen, St Jean Pied de Port, France, also had an air of magic to it for me. My great grandfather was born in a tiny village about 8km from there, and no doubt he was in this larger, more prominent town many times throughout his life before he immigrated to America (in 1906).
As I was standing under a several hundred year old tree, wondering if he ever stood there, a sorta silly thought kept going through my head: “How far back does this go?” I mean after all his father lived there too, and his father’s father lived not far from there, and at one point Napoleon came through here, and it is believed that Charlemagne did as well (my mind was just spiraling at that point).
I realized that my lineage goes back for as far as human history does. All of ours do. It’s not something people think about very often, maybe because it’s kinda freaky to think about.
It had been over 100 years since anyone in my family had returned to the birthplace of my great grandfather, and as I stood in the Basque Country I felt smaller, and bigger, all at the same time.   I had no idea how beautiful and incredible the Basque Country was. Donostia San Sebastian seemed to be the epitome of modern Basque culture and of northern Spanish urban life (along with its equally fabulous fellow city, Bilbao). I even got to witness/join in a Basque language manifestation parade, celebrating the work of those who risked their lives to keep the Basque language alive during the 20th century.
I learned so much about the history and culture of my Basque heritage, but my love and pride was fully solidified when the Basque flag on Monte Urgull lit up in the sunset.  On our way to Portugal and then back to the Basque Country, we visited several absolutely incredible cities/towns/villages in Spain. I only snapped a few shots while we passed through, but although I didn't have time for full on photo shoots, I did have enough time to fall in love with España. Please enjoy these few pictures from various Spanish cities. Sevilla, Spain
Where my dream of seeing real life Spanish flamenco dancers came true. Salamanca, Spain
Salamanca was one of the most picturesque cities I've ever seen, and yet its beauty was on such a large scale that it was impossible to capture in a still photo, no matter how wide your lens. Even at night they had the lighting designed to illuminate their magnificent buildings as if you were on a movie set. Pamplona, Spain
Pamplona is most well known in America for the 'running of the bulls', but as I found out there is so much more going on there, including a flourishing Basque culture (and re-opened Basque language schools! (see picture)) and tons of incredible Spanish architecture that has been seamlessly blended into the modern infrastructure (including the 16th century citadel that has been turned into a public park that I ran at every day). Camino de Santiago
While in Spain we kept hearing about the Camino de Santiago and so decided to embark on our own 5 day pilgrimage. Walking is such amazing exercise! It was so awesome to just be without phone and other technology (except for a few photos I snapped) and just walk and think... through the absolutely gorgeous landscape of northern Spain. People had come from all over the world to walk the Christian pilgrimage trail that 'peregrinos' (pilgrims) had been walking for over a thousand years. Olite, Spain
No, this isn't the Spanish Disney Magical Kingdom, it's the totally real, absolutely incredible town of Olite, Spain.
What can I say about beautiful Nazaré? It is the perfect beach, fascinating ocean, traditional, laid back, varied landscape, modern amenities Portuguese town. Classic white cobble stones on every street, tall buildings, narrow roads, laundry blowing in the ever changing temperatures of the sea breeze. The ocean here can be vicious, and as calm as a country lake. Traditionally dressed ladies add further magic and mystery to this gem of a city on the verge of being uncovered. 
The main large, amazing beach is perfectly flat sand, and the town fully utilizes that area for their events and activities. Fútbol and handball games are regularly going on and people are always interested in getting their feet wet in the magical waters of Nazaré (even when the lifeguards are, on some days, commanding people to stay at least 10 yards from the water due to dangerous undertows). 
The ocean always holds mystery. But in Nazaré the ocean has given up some of its secrets. It was only in 2010 that the first big wave surfer came here, and suddenly this town had a summer and a winter tourism life.
One thing I loved seeing all throughout Portugal (including Nazaré) is that women’s contribution to history is greatly appreciated and recognized through public art and museums. Nazaré, like the rest of Portugal, seems to appreciate what they have, but maybe doesn't yet realize how much the world would consider what they have to be absolutely amazing.   Dia do Homem do Mar means “day of the men of the sea”. The annual event in Nazaré, Portugal is a tribute to fishermen and their contribution to the economy and local identity.
The festival holds great relevance for the local community. It is also a time to pray for protection and blessings for the fishermen.
Watch the video on Dia do Homen do Mar here.
 Not a lot of people know this about me, but I love ocean waves. I think they are beautiful, I dream about them, I love them.
So going to the place that (in the winter) has the biggest waves in the world was so magical!  I didn't see the biggest waves while I was there (next time!) but even what I saw was incredible and the ocean there has such a hidden, restrained power that you could feel even on calmer days.
Nazaré is a wonderful mix of old and modern Portuguese culture that was fascinating (and so fun!) to witness and be a part of.
Some days the ocean is calm, and the waves are perfect for typical beach going adventures. Some days the water is so rough it carves away the beach like a backhoe, and no one is allowed near it. During the winter months, the largest waves in the world can emerge, making Nazaré a premier spot for big wave surfers. “Climbers have Everest. Surfers have Nazaré.” - Portuguese big wave surfer, António Silva   Conímbriga is the most well preserved Roman settlement in all of Portugal. The layers of the archeological site date back to the 9th century. Remarkably preserved mosaics and building structures can be found in numerous locations around the ancient city. It is estimated that only 10 percent of the city has been excavated. The site also has an impressive museum that contains artifacts that have been discovered there.  Coimbra, Portugal is the ultimate "college town" with its famous university built on the grounds of a former palace. It also has its own flavor of fado - Portugal's fabulously melancholy and complex music genre.
 |
